The World’s First Diamond Ring

  It’s a design that just had to happen.  “The world’s first diamond ring” has been unveiled by Shawish, a Swiss Jewelry company.  Priced at a cool $70 million, it’s an engagement ring that’s in a league of its own.
       Whilst all engagement rings consist of a band made from a precious metal set with diamonds, this ring is something else entirely.

Cut from Just One Rough Diamond

The whole ring has been cut from a single chunk of rough diamond, utterly incredible and breathtakingly beautiful.  No metal band or diamond setting to obstruct the flow of light.  This is a ring with ultimate diamond brilliance and fantastic light flashes and sparkle



A Year’s Work

It took one year to carve the ring which of course is now copyrighted; they wouldn’t want all of is to try the same thing, would they?

Cutting a diamond of that size is no simple matter, however, Shawish Jewelry president and CEO Mohamed Shawesh and his talented team managed to pull off the incredible feat.  Lazers were used to enable a hole to be cut through the center of the diamond without disturbing the diamond’s molecular structure.

Why diamond grades begin with "D" & not A, B, C?

Something’s missing here…hmm…even my 4 year old can sing the alphabet in his sleep. A, B, C, D, E, F, G…so how did A, B and C get left out of the color grading scale and skipped straight to D??

The first ever official grading of Diamonds was in England by the London Diamond Syndicate – in order to sort through rough Diamonds for sale. From that point up until the 1940s there were many different color systems diamond traders used…   

Letters of the alphabet (A, AA, AAA; A, B and C, with multiple A’s for the best stones), Arabic (0, 1, 2, 3) and Roman Numerals(I, II, III), and descriptions such as “golconda”,  “river”,  “jagers”,  “cape”,  “blue white”, “fine white”,  “gem blue” and “brown” and more…

– comparing and determining Diamond Color was confusing, inconsistent and inaccurate. 

Then along came the Gemological Institute of America, shaking its head and offering us a deep sigh of relief! At last! The Color Grading Scale along with so many of the GIA’s incredible work in the field of diamond grading, was developed in the 1940’s and 50’s. The GIA wanted a fresh start and to avoid any association with the past bedlam surrounding Color Grading. Thus the Color Grading System we have today was born – starting not with the already confusing I, 1 or A …but the fresh and untouched letter D. And the rest, as they say, is history!

Today, across the Globe, Diamond experts fully co-operate and use the GIA Diamond Grading Chart, ranging from Perfect, Colorless “D” to Yellowish, Brownish “Z”.

Diamond Mining

               Of all the diamonds mined in the world each year, less than half are gem quality; the rest fall into two other main categories known as near-gem quality and industrial quality diamonds.
Gem quality diamonds display a high standard of excellence in quality and are used in diamond rings and other diamond jewelry. The clarity of these loose diamonds ranges from flawless through to visible inclusions.
Near-gem quality diamonds represent those stones of a quality between gem and industrial that in fact can be used as either depending on the individual stone. These stones have clarity grades ranging from visible inclusions through to industrial.
Industrial quality diamonds are low quality or badly included stones and are suitable only for industrial use; for example, they are used in dentist's drills and earth moving equipment.

Diamonds are recovered by way of pipe or alluvial mining.

Pipe Mining

Pipe mining refers to the extraction of diamonds from volcanic pipes. Typically, a very large area has to be covered. An average of 250 tons of ore must be mined in order to produce a one-carat gem quality polished diamond.

In most countries, a diamond pipe mine is composed of kimberlite, or blue ground. Initially kimberlite is dug from the surface of the pipes in rough opencast mining. Once the surface deposits have been exhausted, shafts are sunk into the ground at the edge of the pipes, and tunnels are driven into the deeper parts of the pipes.

Open Cut Mining

In open cut mining, the ore is dislodged by blasting and then loaded by excavators into 120-ton dump trucks. The ore is then transported to the processing plant where the diamonds are extracted. The processing techniques are purely physical and involve crushing, scrubbing, screening and gravity separation of the diamond-bearing ore. Final diamond recovery is achieved by the use of x-ray sorting machines. The machines can detect and remove diamond material because the diamonds fluoresce under x-ray. 

Top 10 Diamond Mines

1. Russia: Mirna Mine is the largest diamond deposit in Russia and one of the largest in the world.
2. Australia: Argyle Diamond Mine is the largest producer in world, mostly industrial grade. Rio Tinto.
3. Botswana: Jwaneng Diamond Mine produces small stonesand is the richest mine in world.
4. Angola: Fourth largest diamond mine in world. Kimberlite pipe.
5. Angola: Catoca Diamond Mine: Luzamba Diamond Mine is Angola’s largest alluvial mine, Endiama (50%), Odebrecht (50%).
6. Botswana: Letlhakane Diamond Mine: (“little reeds”) second oldest of four – De Beers mines in Botswana.
7. Botswana: Orapa Diamond Mine near a resting place for lions is the largest and oldest of the four DeBeers mines in Botswana.
8. Congo: Bakwanga Mine are alluvial river mines in Kasaï. MIBA.
9. Sierra Leone: Magna Egoli Mine is the largest mechanized mine in Sierra Leone.
10. South Africa: Cullinan Diamond Mine is a open pit and hard rock diamond mine owned by De Beers.

How diamonds are found: exploration

For centuries the exquisite beauty and inner fire of diamonds have made them prized above all other gems, and each diamond is endowed with a character uniquely its own.


Generally, kimberlites occur in clusters of up to five or more, in close proximity to each other. They are not necessarily all the consequence of a single volcanic event. Indeed, they may have resulted from several different events over a period of time, adding to the complexity of sampling and proving their economic potential.
Geologists use many methods to explore for kimberlites, including satellite remote sensing, geophysics and reconnaissance sampling. Any kimberlites discovered can then be drilled to establish whether or not they contain economic quantities of diamonds.
The first step is generally to investigate areas with a history of diamond recovery, and then to follow up with stream or deflation sampling for evidence of kimberlite indicators such as garnets. Thereafter, the use of geophysics to search for magnetic anomalies is applied. Sampling and drilling are then used to confirm whether the anomalies are indeed kimberlites.
Once an anomaly has been confirmed as a kimberlite, HMA sampling of representative material is carried out as a quick and efficient method of assessing whether the kimberlite has the potential to be diamondiferous. Micro-diamond and mini-bulk sampling are then used to establish if there is the potential for those kimberlites prioritised by HMA sampling to host an economic concentration of diamonds.
If positive results are achieved through the initial processes mentioned above, then a company will be in a position to commence bulk sampling material by drilling the deposit and extracting core for analysis. The aim is here to establish the economics for mining a particular kimberlite, and will give indications of grade, cost per tonne and average value per carat. From here, a production decision can be made.

ANTWERP POLISHED DIAMOND TRADE MUTED IN AUGUST

25 September 2012,

Polished diamond trade through Antwerp was slow in August, reflecting the tough economic state of the trade – as well as Europe's. Polished diamond exports fell 23.4% year on year to $404.4 million.

Belgium's diamond sector was mostly on vacation in August, as evident from the 50.7% month-over-month decline.

However, the figures, released Monday by AWDC, also show that traders accumulated many goods. Polished diamond imports of $760.7 million worth of polished diamonds are 88.1% more goods then were exported.

The volume of trade also declined. Exports of 263,299 carats are 19.1% year-over-year decline. Imports declined 19.8% to 539,877 carats, according to AWDC.

Not all declines were that drastic. It seems that price points are somewhat immune to the economic situation. The average value of exports stood at $1,535.81 per carat in August, a 5.3% decline.

The average value of imports declined only 4.0% to $1,408.97 per carat.

The difference in average value between imports and exports indicates the trade's added value – in this case 9.0%.

AWDC sought to emphasize that Belgium is faring better than the two other main trading centers, India and Israel, by comparing imports to the U.S.

Imports from Belgium in the first half of 2012 increased 2.0% year-over-year, while imports from Israel declined 5.9% and India by 14.0%.

Diamond Certification

A diamond certificate, also known as a diamond grading report, is an easily understood document prepared by an expert gemologist that describes the key characteristics of a diamond. A certificate from a gemological laboratory verifies the quality of a loose diamond and allows non-experts to make educated diamond buying decisions.

Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

Founded in 1931, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is an independent, non-profit organization widely considered as the world's foremost authority in gemology. Introduced in 1953, their diamond and gemstone grading system is recognized as an accepted standard worldwide. Gemstone manufacturers from around the globe send diamonds and gems to the GIA for expert examination and analysis.

The GIA's mission is to increase consumers' trust in diamonds and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism. They work toward this goal by providing jeweler and consumer education, conducting meticulous research, and developing state-of-the-art laboratory instruments for diamond inspections.

GIA Diamond Grading

The GIA Diamond Grading Report is issued for diamonds that fall in the D-Z color range. This detailed report includes a full quality analysis of shape and cutting style, measurements, carat weight, color grade, clarity grade, cut grade (for brilliant round-cut diamonds), polish and symmetry assessments, and fluorescence. The report also includes a plotted diagram indicating the relative size and location of clarity characteristics, a proportion diagram, and GIA grading scales.

GIA Diamond Dossier

The GIA Diamond Dossier® is issued for diamonds between 0.15 and 1.99 carats that fall in the D-Z color range. This report includes all of the information featured in the Diamond Grading Report without a plotted diagram. All diamonds accompanied by a Diamond Dossier are laser inscribed and registered in the GIA inscription registry.

Contact the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

5355 Armada Drive 

Carlsbad, California 92008 

Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 

Phone: 760-603-4500 Fax: 760-603-1814
www.gia.edu

International Gemological Institute (IGI)

 Established in 1975, the International Gemological Institute (IGI) is the largest   independent gemological laboratory in the world, with locations in all major diamond trade cities. The IGI's mission is to provide the industry's professionals and consumers with accurate, reliable expertise through education programs and through diamond and fine jewelry certification.

Contact the International Gemological Institute (IGI)

IGI New York

589 Fifth Avenue 
New York, NY 10017 
Phone: 212-753-7100 
Fax: 212-753-7759 
www.igi-usa.com 

IGI Belgium (World Headquarters)

Schupstraat 1 
2018 Antwerp 
Belgium 
Phone: +32 3 401 08 88 
Fax: +32 3 232 07 58 
www.igiworldwide.com

American Gem Society (AGS)

Founded in 1943, the American Gem Society (AGS) is dedicated to upholding the highest standards of ethics and integrity in the diamond and jewelry industries. Among the main priorities of the association is top-notch industry education, with numerous courses offered to jewelry professionals and consumers.

In 1996, the AGS established a laboratory to provide modern gemstone grading services for the diamond marketplace. Its conservative, thorough approach to diamond grading has made the AGS one of the world's most respected gemological laboratories.

Contact the American Gem Society (AGS)

8917 West Sahara Avenue 

Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 

Phone: 702-233-6120 

Fax: 702-233-6125 

www.agslab.com

European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)

The European Gemological Laboratory, or EGL, was founded in Belgium more than 30 years ago. EGL is committed to protecting the integrity of the jewelry trade and promoting public interest through applied science, innovation, education, and exceptional service. The laboratory is credited with introducing new approaches to diamond grading and conducting advanced research with physicists, geologists, and mineralogists.

An EGL certificate is a valued document that aids consumers in the diamond buying process and is the result of thorough scrutiny of a diamond.

Contact the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)

EGL USA

6 West 48th Street 

New York, New York 10036 

Phone: 212-730-7380 

Fax: 212-842-5180 

www.eglusa.com 

Contact the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)

23 Tuval St. 

Ramat Gan, Israel 52522 

Toll-Free: 888-454-6818 

Phone: +972 3-752-8428 

Fax: +972 3-751-0047 

www.eglinternational.org

Hoge Raad Voor Diamant (HRD)

The Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD), translated as the 'Diamond High Council', was established in Antwerp in 1973 as the European counterpart to the GIA (Gemological Institute of America). In addition to monitoring the import and export of more than half of the world's loose diamond supply, the HRD issues widely recognized certificates for diamonds and gemstones based on internationally accepted standards.

The HRD's mission is to develop Antwerp as a world diamond center by representing the diamond sector in Belgium and abroad to public governments and diamond organizations. Furthermore, they also strive to increase industry knowledge by conducting thorough research in manufacturing and trade efficiency.

Contact the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD)

Hoveniersstraat 22 

BE-2018 Antwerp 

Belgium 

Phone: +32 (0)3 222 06 11 

Fax: +32 (0)3 222 06 99 

www.hrd.be

Diamond Fluorescence

Fluorescence, the effect ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond, is an important consideration when selecting a diamond. When UV light strikes a diamond with fluorescent properties, the stone emits a glow that is usually blue, but can also reflect shades of green, yellow, white, pink, orange, and red. The sources of fluorescence, boron and nitrogen, are the same mineral properties that lend color to a diamond.

Fluorescence can occur in different intensities. Gemological laboratories rate the fluorescence of each diamond on a scale from "None" to "Very Strong".

None, Nil, Negligible

No fluorescence, no influence on color

---

Faint, Slight

Weak fluorescence, not a significant influence on color (barely perceptible)

---

Medium

Average fluorescence, small influence

---

Strong, Extremely Strong

Strong influence, substantial color influence

The Fluorescence Effect
Fluorescence can enhance or detract from the beauty of a diamond. The bluish tint can improve a lower-color diamond (J-M color rated) by cancelling out the faint yellow, resulting in a colorless appearance. However, in a very high-color diamond (D-F color rated), fluorescence may have the opposite effect.

In a small number of diamonds, the presence of strong fluorescence creates a hazy, milky, oily, or cloudy appearance. For this reason, very fluorescent diamonds can be valued lower than similar diamonds with fluorescent ratings of "None," "Faint," or "Medium." If you have selected a diamond with "Strong" or "Very Strong" fluorescence 

Diamond Shape

Did you know that the 10 universally recognized diamond shapes that we know today are in fact relatively recent innovations, created and given a theoretic, public platform beginning only in the early 20th century? The 14th century marked the start of European diamond cutting novelties that yielded shapes which, while being the predecessors of today's cuts, are unknown to the modern day diamond consumer: The Point Cut, Old Eight Cut, Pendeloque, Briolette, Rosette, Mazarin and Peruzzi. These advances were in fact the stepping stones to today's 10 contemporary diamond cuts, the global diamond industry's accepted standards.

As part of Zwelex's unfailing commitment to thoroughly educating our customers before, during and after your diamond purchase, we are delighted to present the following diamond shape guide within the scope of our Diamond Learning Center. Each diamond shape has specific and unique characteristics that influence the quality of the diamond. To help you decide what shape best suits your personal taste, take a look below at the different qualities of each distinct diamond shape.

We invite you to look, learn, and marvel. And if you have any questions about diamond shapes, Zwelex welcomes you to Contact Us and speak with one of our experienced customer service representatives.

Round

The round brilliant diamond is the most popular and perhaps the most technically advanced of all of the diamond shapes. Only after the development of new diamond cutting technology and a breakthrough in research regarding proportion and symmetry, was the round brilliant born. The round brilliant that we know today was invented by Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian mathematician born to a family of diamond cutters who, in 1919, wrote his doctoral thesis on diamond proportion and symmetry, and "invented" the round brilliant. According to his research, the round brilliant, with its 58 facets, has the perfect proportions and symmetry to maximize a diamond's brilliance and fire. This superior quality, therefore, allows for those interested in the round brilliant to be quite flexible regarding the other qualities of their diamond: color, cut and clarity.

Princess

The princess diamond is the most popular shape after the round brilliant and is typically square in shape, although it can also be rectangular. The princess shape was created in the 1980s and displays the same high degree of brilliance as the round brilliant. It is a unique and distinctive alternative to the popular round brilliant. It's important to note that when weighing color grades and prices, sometimes a lower color grade diamond in a princess shape will manifest as visible color in the corners of the stone.

Emerald
The emerald cut is not a brilliant cut, but rather features a large open table with step cuts. The emerald cut is traditionally rectangular and most closely resembles the natural diamond shape. Although the emerald diamond is not as brilliant as the round shape or princess shape, it is considered to be an elegant cut, vintage in style, and less "flashy" than other shapes.
Note that due to the large table of the emerald shape, inclusions and color can be easier to detect. It is recommended that you choose a diamond with a higher clarity and color grade than you would if choosing a brilliant diamond.


Asscher
The Asscher diamond is almost indistinguishable from the emerald cut aside from its larger step facets, dramatically cut corners and square shape. Also, because of its proportions, it typically has more light reflection and fire than an emerald shaped diamond. As with the emerald diamond, the Asscher diamond also has a certain antique, elegant air about it. The Asscher diamond, similar to the princess diamond, can sometimes show color impurities in its corners. Therefore, although the price for an Asscher diamond with lower color grade can be enticing, we recommend choosing one with an H color grade or higher.


Oval
The oval diamond is a modified round brilliant shape. While this means that it has a high level of brilliance, if the stone is not a premium cut, there is a greater likelihood of the bowtie effect, or a dark strip that appears in the center of the stone in the shape of a bowtie. Zwelex carries only quality cut oval diamonds with optimally cut angles.



Marquise
The shape of the marquise diamond was allegedly inspired by the mouth of the beautiful Marquise de Pompadour. It has a football-like shape that comes to a point on either end, which is said to maximize the illusion of increased diamond weight, giving the appearance of a much larger-looking diamond. A modification of the round brilliant, the marquise shape also offers a high level or brilliance and light reflection, and due to its long, lean frame, marquise diamonds are frequently set with side stones.


Radiant
The radiant shape was the first diamond of rectangular shape to have a brilliant facet pattern used both for the crown and pavilion, offering a brighter and more brilliant stone than the emerald shape. The radiant shape was born over twenty years ago and is considered to be the father of 'fancy cut' diamonds. The proportioning, facet arrangement and shape of the radiant diamond is considered a good shape for colored diamonds since it is widely held that these factors intensify color.


Heart
The heart shaped diamond is a modified brilliant diamond shape and can vary greatly in length and width. The heart shape, with its classic connotation of romance and love, is a popular choice for anniversary rings and Mother's Day necklaces. Zwelex recommends that when shopping for a heart shaped diamond you should look for a stone that is perfectly symmetrical: Where the top arches of the heart are even in height and width so that its overall shape is aesthetically pleasing. The cleft in any well-cut heart shaped diamond should be sharp and definite. Also, the heart shaped diamond, similar to the princess shape, can sometimes show color impurities at its corners. Therefore, although the price for a heart shaped diamond with lower color grade can seem inviting, we recommend choosing a heart shaped diamond with an H color grade or higher.


Pear
The pear shaped diamond is also a modified brilliant shape, a combination of the round and marquis shapes. It is also known as a teardrop shape for its round bottom and sides which taper to one common point. Some of the world's most famous and most highly graded diamonds have been cut into the pear shape. An elongated pear shape is also considered a specifically flattering shape when worn mounted on a ring with the point facing upwards towards the nail, thus creating an apparent slimming effect of the finger.


Cushion

he cushion shaped diamond is technically known as the Old Mine Cut, a shape born before the 1900s. It developed its name due to its similarity to the shape of a pillow and is therefore also known as the "pillow cut". The cushion shaped diamond was one of the most popular diamond shapes before the invention of the round brilliant. Once the round brilliant was developed, the brilliant angles and proportions were incorporated into the cushion shape. The cushion shape has rounded corners and now features larger facets, which increase the brilliance of the stone. It should also be noted that the cushion shape is a popular choice for fancy colored diamonds since the color is displayed evenly throughout cushion shaped diamonds. It should be noted that the large facets of a cushion diamond can make it easier to detect inclusions in the stone. It is therefore recommended that those in the market for a cushion diamond choose a color grade of I or greater and a clarity grade of S1 or higher.

Diamond Carat Weight

What is a Carat?
A carat is the unit of weight used to measure diamonds and other precious gemstones, also known as the carat size or the diamond carat size. The term carat is derived from the Greek word keration, meaning carob beans. In the Mediterranean, carob beans were used for centuries to measure the weight of various goods. This is because carob seeds were thought to be uniform in size and weight. In contrast, Asian markets used grains of rice to measure their goods and you may still hear some jewelers refer to a single carat diamond as a "four grainer" since one carat was once considered to be equal to the weight of four grains of rice. By the early 1900s, the carat size was standardized against the metric system and adopted internationally: 1 carat (1ct) is equal to .2 grams or .007 ounces. Smaller diamonds can also be measured in carat weight points. One carat is equal to 100 points; therefore a .25 carat diamond can also be referred to as a 25 point diamond.

Does Carat Weight Determine Size?
Contrary to popular belief, carat weight is not an accurate reflection of a diamond's size, the carat size. A diamond increases in weight much faster than it increases in diameter. While small round diamonds that have the same carat weight are almost indistinguishable in size, the heavier a diamond gets, the less predictable its size is.

In order to determine a diamond's size, the carat weight of the stone should be weighed in conjunction with the diamond's diameter in millimeters and the diamond's cut grade. The diamond's diameter measured in millimeters reflects the appearance of the diamond as seen from above once the stone is mounted. It is measured across the girdle of the stone, and does not incorporate the height of the pavilion.

Some low carat diamonds with high grade cuts look larger than high carat diamonds with low grade cuts. Diamonds with higher cut grades reflect the maximum amount of light and generate the greatest fire and brilliance. This bright sparkle and intense luminescence can frequently cause the diamond to appear larger than it is, to create the impression of a large diamond carat size. Moreover, diamonds with lower cut grades can have long and deep pavilions that cause light to "leak out", dulling and muting the stone's radiance. These long pavilions may add weight to a diamond, but this weight is covered beneath the setting once the stone is mounted, making the diamond carat size appear much smaller. Viewers of diamonds such as these may be surprised by how small the stones appear in comparison to their carat weight.

Carat Weight and Price
Diamond prices rise drastically with increase in carat weight. This is because only one in approximately one million diamonds mined produces a full cut and polished one carat diamond. During the cutting process, a great deal of rough diamond material is lost; up to 40-60 percent of rough diamond is shed. The larger diamond, the rarer the diamond, the more expensive.

What Carat Weight Should I Choose?
Every diamond wearer has different criteria regarding their diamond, popular carat sizes vary greatly. Some value diamond carat size over clarity, others value color over carat weight. At Zwelex we believe that the most important things to consider are personal taste, budget, and for a diamond ring, the setting and size of the finger or hand of the wearer.

Personal Taste: Decide which of the Four Cs is the most important to you. Some are sensitive to brilliance and sparkle more than size. Others prefer large vintage-style diamonds which are typically less radiant, but greater in carat size.

Budget: If you are looking for a larger stone but you’re on a budget, you can try to maximize the appearance of the stone by investing in the stone's cut and choosing a brilliant shape. You may instead prefer to invest in a stone of high carat weight but with lower clarity, color and cut grades. Choosing a large diamond carat size over a large carat weight

Setting: Diamonds that are longer in shape such as a marquis, pear, or rectangular emerald, can create the illusion of a larger diamond. Also, if a diamond is mounted into a high-pronged setting such as the tiffany setting or the tall prong setting, it can make a stone look larger. Finally, adding side accent stones of low carat and lower quality can be an affordable way to enlarge the ring and total carat weight.

Finger Size: Small diamonds appear larger on small hands and vice-versa. Large diamonds can look clumsy on small or slender fingers. For a woman with small and thin fingers, you may want to consider a diamond of lower carat weight and a lower carat size.

Diamond Clarity

Of all of the Four Cs, Clarity is the easiest to evaluate and considered the most straightforward for the average diamond consumer to understand.

While diamonds are being formed deep within the Earth's surface, the extreme heat and pressure that help shape them can also create cracks, flaws or inclusions. These internal and external imperfections or blemishes are considered to be the natural birthmark of every diamond. Technically, a diamond's interior irregularities are referred to as inclusions and a diamond's exterior irregularities are referred to as blemishes. Frequently, these marks are detectable only under a powerful microscope or jeweler's loupe, and therefore do not visibly affect the appearance or beauty of a diamond.

When a professional gemologist evaluates or grades a diamond's clarity, typically these inclusions and blemishes are mapped to create a "fingerprint" of the diamond. This "fingerprint" is what distinguishes the diamond as unique.

What Are Inclusions?
The internal irregularities in a diamond are the diamonds' inclusions. Inclusions typically consist of crystals, clouds and feathers. Crystals are tiny minerals that become trapped inside a diamond during its formation. Clouds are foggy spots in the diamond which are created by crystals that are so small that they can only be seen under a 10x magnifying microscope. Feathers are fractures in a stone that, when relatively small, are inconsequential to the strength of a diamond. Large feathers, however, can weaken a diamond's structure, and will decrease the value and quality of your diamond.

What Are Blemishes?
Blemishes are external impurities or marks on the surface of a diamond, and typically appear as a scratch imperceptible to the naked eye. Blemishes typically have less impact on a diamond's value, beauty and grade since they rarely affect the strength and structure of the diamond.

Clarity Grading
The Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) International Diamond Grading System™ is the globally recognized standard for diamond clarity assessment. With 11 grades, the system classifies a diamond's clarity based on the nature, position and size of its inclusions and exclusions. The list below summarizes the GIA's International Diamond Grading System.

Diamonds with the least amount of flaws hold the highest clarity grading. Flawless diamonds are extremely rare, considered to be the most beautiful of all diamond grades. Because they are so scarce diamond experts consider Internally Flawless diamonds (IF) to be the most valuable examples of near-perfection in the international diamond market.

Trained gemologists grade the clarity of a diamond by examining it top-down with the use of a 10x magnifying microscope and looking at the diamond from the top down. The position, size and type of inclusions and blemishes are all crucial factors in evaluating the clarity of a diamond. Imperfections located on or beneath the table of the diamond are easier to detect and affect clarity grade more than those located around the sides of the diamond. Larger marks, darker marks, and deep marks will also significantly affect the clarity of the diamond.

FL, IF Flawless/Internally Flawless: Flawless diamonds have no inclusions or blemishes detectable under 10x magnification, and are extremely rare. Internally flawless diamonds have no detectable inclusions under 10x magnification, are rare and very valuable.

VVS1/VVS2 Very Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are extremely difficult for a skilled grader to detect under 10 x magnification.

VS1/VS2 Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are detectable under 10x magnification, however they are minor flaws that do not impact the diamond's beauty and are frequently invisible to the naked eye.

SI1/SI2 Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are easily noticeable under 10x magnification and may also be visible to the naked eye.

I1,I2,I3 Included: Inclusions and blemishes are obvious under 10x magnification and typically visible to the naked eye. These flaws may negatively impact the transparency and or brilliance of the diamond.

What Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
Zwelex recommends that you work within your budget to select a diamond with the least amount of inclusions and blemishes, qualities which will negatively impact the value and durability of your diamond. Many diamond purists insist on FL or IF diamonds, believing that these diamonds are 100% flawless, however, it is important to note that this is not the case. Almost all diamonds have some flaws. FL and IF diamonds simply have no flaws detectable under 10x magnification. SI and VS diamonds are typically considered clarity grades of fantastic value since their inclusions are minor and invisible to the unaided eye.

When looking at diamonds with many facets and a highly brilliant cut, such as round brilliants, it is typically impossible to differentiate between SI1 clarity and VS clarity or greater. For this reason, SI1 or VS2 will give you a beautiful diamond at a much lower price tag. However, before purchasing your diamond, please consult with one of our expert Customer Service representatives to ensure that your diamond does not have any "eye-visible" inclusions.

When looking at fancy shaped diamonds that have fewer facets and larger tables, such as Emerald or Asscher diamonds, inclusions are easier to detect with the naked eye. Therefore, we recommend choosing a fancy shaped diamond with a clarity grade no lower than VS2.

Diamond Cut

Diamond cut refers to the proportions, polish, and symmetry of a stone: the three main factors involved in creating a diamond with optimal light reflection. Good light performance, the term used to describe light refraction and light return through the top of the diamond, is what many refer to as the "brilliance" of a diamond.

An excellent diamond cut produces a diamond with a high light return, dazzling brilliance, fire and scintillation. A poor cut, on the other hand, can cause light to seep out of the sides and bottom of the diamond, or it can limit the amount of light that enters a diamond. Poor cuts can therefore cause the diamond to appear dark, dull and lifeless, despite its color and clarity grades. This fact makes a diamond's cut the most significant factor to influence appearance. For this reason, Zwelex suggests that you choose the diamond with the highest cut grade that falls within your budget.

The cut of a diamond influences three main qualities:

Brilliance
Brilliance is the total amount of light reflected by a diamond. When light hits the diamond's surface, some light enters and some is reflected back. The most immediate light reflected back is returned by the crown's angles.

Scintillation
Scintillation refers to the flashes of light, or sparkles, which are produced when a diamond is tilted from side to side. The light that isn't immediately reflected back enters the diamond and reflects from the inside walls toward the center of the diamond. This light, which bounces off the internal walls of the diamond, is the quality described as scintillation.

Fire
A diamond's fire refers to the dispersion of light into different colored light. Once the light is bounced off the inside walls towards the center of the diamond, it then shoots back through the top of the diamond. Because the light is slightly bent by the diamond, a color spectrum is visible when light exits the top of the diamond.

Understanding Diamond Anatomy

To properly understand a diamond's cut, it is important to understand the terminology of basic diamond structure as it relates to proportion, symmetry and polish.

Diameter: The diameter is the width of a polished diamond from one side of the girdle to another

Table: The table is the largest polished facet of the diamond on the top face of the stone

Crown: The crown is the top part of the diamond that is measured from the surface of the table to the girdle

Girdle: The girdle is the widest edge of the diamond where the crown ends and meets the pavilion

Pavilion: The pavilion is the bottom part of the diamond that begins at the girdle and extends downward to the point of the culet

Culet: The culet is the tiny flat facet at the bottom tip of the diamond

Depth: The depth of a diamond refers to the total length of a diamond, measured from the culet to the table

Proportion, Symmetry and Polish

Diamond Proportion
To optimally capture light and reflect it back, a diamond's pavilion must have accurate angles and depth. If the angle of the pavilion is too shallow or too deep, light will escape or leak out, creating dark and dull "stains". The crown angle is also extremely important since this affects the way that light enters and exits the diamond.

Not only are the angles important, but depth percentage and table percentage are also key factors that contribute to the quality of a diamond's cut. Depth percentage refers to the depth of the diamond divided by its diameter. Shallower diamonds have low depth percentages whereas deeper diamonds have higher depth percentages. A good target depth percentage for a round diamond is considered to fall between 59 and 62.5%. Table percentage refers to the width of the table divided by the diameter. Again, diamonds with a higher table percentage have larger tables, and diamonds with a smaller table percentage have smaller tables. A good target depth percentage for a round diamond is considered to fall between 53 and 59%.

Diamond Symmetry
A diamond's facets must be symmetrical in order to maximize the amount of light that enters and exits the stone. Diamonds with poor symmetry look slightly distorted, unbalanced and improperly shaped. Moreover, they will affect brilliance, scintillation and fire. Many asymmetrical round stones are not completely round, or have misshapen facets or off-center culets. Zwelex recommends that you consider round brilliant diamonds with a symmetry grade no lower than Very Good, and fancy cut diamonds with a symmetry grade no lower than Good.

Diamond Polish
Once a diamond is cut, each facet of the diamond is polished. If the polishing is done improperly, it can leave scratches and streaks that are similar to the marks left behind after a car waxing. An Excellent diamond polish is a diamond which has very few or no scratches. Zwelex recommends that you consider diamonds with a polish grade no lower than Good.

Cut Grades
Ideal/ Excellent – Excellent light performance. Reflects almost all of the light that enters. Rare and extremely beautiful cuts.

Very Good – Very good light performance. Reflects almost all of the light that enters. Very Good diamond cuts are considered to be an outstanding value.

Good – Good light performance. Reflects most of the light that enters. Good diamond cuts are far less pricey than Very Good cuts.

Fair – Not as brilliant as a Good cuts or above, Fair diamond cuts are still considered good quality diamonds.

Poor – Poor cut diamonds are typically cut too shallow or too deep causing much of the light to leak out of the diamond's sides and base. Most high end diamond retailers do not carry Poor cut diamonds.

Diamond Color

         When most industry experts discuss a diamond's color, they are typically referring to a diamond's transparancy, or lack of color. Diamonds composed of 100% pure carbon without any impurities render completely colorless diamonds. However, almost all diamonds contain some degree of color impurity caused by lingering traces of nitrogen, boron, hydrogen or other elements. Most diamonds are affected solely by nitrogen traces, which create pale yellowish or brownish tints.

When shopping for a diamond, be aware that the most valuable diamonds have the least amount of color, no diamond color. However, it is important to note that there is a class of diamonds known as fancy diamonds which are actual colored diamonds, including blue diamonds, pink diamonds and even yellow diamonds, if in fact you are looking for colored diamonds.

What Color Grade Should I Choose?

       Zwelex suggests that you do some window shopping for certified diamonds, take a look at diamonds of all color grades and compare and contrast. The difference in appearance between colorless diamonds and near colorless diamonds may not be detectable, but the price difference can be quite considerable. If you find that you are sensitive to low color grades, then we suggest you choose a diamond with the color grade that satisfies you. However, if you have difficulty differentiating between different color grades, then you may want to consider a nearly colorless diamond.

    Assuming that you are looking for a round brilliant diamond, you have a bit more flexibility in your color grade, because the brilliance makes it more difficult to detect color. In this instance, anything over I color is usually more than adequate, and will appear completely colorless to the untrained eye unless held up against a diamond that is at least 3 color grades above it, such as an F or E colored diamond. Therefore, you may want to consider the hundreds to thousands of dollars that you can save by going lower on the color scale. For example, you can use the difference towards the carat weight and get a larger diamond, or consider a diamond with a better cut, thus providing you with a more sparkling and dazzling stone.

    There are also many gemologists and diamond experts who claim that a completely colorless diamond provides light refraction that is too harsh and is unpleasant to the eye. Imagine if you are looking into a very bright spotlight- other than the glare, you can’t really see anything. However, when the light is slightly dimmed you can actually see more detail and the viewing experience is more comfortable. These experts suggest getting a diamond that has a small amount of color, which will soften the light and make it easier to view the entire spectrum of color that is given off when the diamond scintillates. If your setting is in yellow gold, you have even more flexibility in the color. Since the color of the diamond is usually only noticed when comparing it to an item that is white or colorless, if held up against a yellow gold background, there will be far less contrast, and the color will be even less noticeable. In this instance, you can even get a diamond with a J color, and it will still appear to be colorless to the untrained eye.

   There are exceptions to the rule however. For example, diamonds with pointed ends, specifically marquis, radiants, trillion, pear and sometimes even princess shaped diamonds tend to focus the color on these points. In this case, it is usually best to stay with a color grade of H and higher. However, if you have a pronged setting, the prongs will usually hide this color concentration In addition, when you are perhaps looking for a loose center diamond for a 3 stone ring, it is important to make sure that the color ranges are at least within 1 grade of each other.


Color Grading: How it Works
When grading a diamond's color, the stone is examined face-down under carefully controlled light. The diamond's color is then compared to a "master stone" which has a predetermined diamond color.

The Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) color grading system is the diamond industry's standard for diamond color grading. The GIA's color grading system begins with D, being the whitest, and continues through the alphabet to Z, for stones that are yellowish or brownish. Before the GIA developed their universal diamond color grading standard several other diamond color scales were being used by the international diamond community. The GIA's intention was to completely differentiate their new system from the others. As such, they chose letters D-Z, letters that had never been used for diamond grading before.

Diamond Color
D 100% Colorless. The highest color grade a diamond can receive. D graded diamonds are extremely rare and very highly priced.

 
E,F Colorless. Exceptionally transparent. Extremely difficult to detect the traces of color in an E or F graded diamond. These diamonds are rare and highly priced.

 
G,H Nearly Colorless. Unless these diamonds are compared next to a master stone of higher color grade, color is nearly indiscernible. When face up these diamond appear nearly colorless. These diamonds are still rare, but slightly less expensive and are considered a good value.

 
I,J Nearly Colorless. Color in these diamonds is slightly detectable. The slight amount of color is imperceptible by the unaided eye once the diamond has been mounted. These diamonds are of superior value, and therefore compose the majority of diamonds that are used for engagement rings, earrings and pendants.

 
K-M Faint Yellow. Noticeable color, although some diamonds in this range can still be fiery and beautiful.

 
N-Z Very Light or Light Yellow. Noticeable color. These diamonds are not fit to be sold as gemstones, unless you specifically would like to have a diamond with an amber color.

Diamond Buying Guide

    The first thing about diamond purchase is the high budget you need to consider.  Now, how does one decide upon this?  If the first diamond you are buying is for engagement purpose, two months' salary is the norm.  Notwithstanding, the best diamond that you can buy with this budget is an art you will master by the end of this guide.
                   Diamonds are graded into several categories.  While this is helpful to the professional, it can be confusing to the customer.  The whole idea is to gather enough information to make an intelligent decision, but the information can be overwhelming.  To help you we have made this guide.
                  There are four fundamental characteristics that characterize the value of a diamond; cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Often these diamond uniqueness are referred to as the 4 C’s (four C’s).

• Diamond Color
• Diamond Color
• Diamond Cut
• Diamond Clarity
• Diamond Carat Weight
• Diamond Shapes
• Diamond Fluorescence
• Diamond Certifications

Type of Diamonds

• Natural Diamonds

Natural diamonds are classified by the type and quantity of impurities found within them.

Type Ia - This is the most common type of natural diamond, containing up to 0.3% nitrogen.
Type Ib - Very few natural diamonds are this type (~0.1%), but nearly all synthetic industrial diamonds are. Type Ib diamonds contain up to 500 ppm nitrogen.
Type IIa - This type is very rare in nature. Type IIa diamonds contain so little nitrogen that it isn't readily detected using infrared or ultraviolet absorption methods.
Type IIb - This type is also very rare in nature. Type IIb diamonds contain so little nitrogen (even lower than type IIa) that the crystal is a p-type semiconductor

• Synthetic Industrial Diamonds

Synthetic industrial diamonds are produced the process of High Pressure High Temperature Synthesis (HPHT). In HPHT synthesis, graphite and a metallic catalyst are placed in a hydraulic press under high temperatures and pressures. Over the period of a few hours the graphite converts to diamond. The resulting diamonds are usually a few millimeters in size and too flawed for use as gemstones, but they are extremely useful as edges on cutting tools and drill-bits and for being compressed to generate very high pressures. (Interesting side note: Although used to cut, grind, and polish many materials, diamonds aren't used to machine alloys of iron because the diamond abrades very quickly, due to a high-temperature reaction between iron and carbon.)

• Thin Film Diamonds

A process called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) may be used to deposit thin films of polycrystalline diamond. CVD technology makes it possible to put 'zero-wear' coatings on machine parts, use diamond coatings to draw the heat away from electronic components, fashion windows that are transparent over a broad wavelength range, and take advantage of other properties of diamonds.

Where diamonds are found?

Diamonds are found all over the world, but 80% of all diamonds come from just seven sources: Angola, Australia, Botswana, Namibia, Russia, South Africa and Zaire. Modern mining - and the rise of the great De Beers diamond empire - began in South Africa in the mid 19th century. Legend has it that Erasmus Jacobs, an eight-year-old farm boy, found a 21-ct. yellow "pebble" in 1866 near the Orange River that turned out to be a diamond - the first of many discovered in South Africa.

What is Diamond?

         Diamond is a colourless exceptionally hard mineral (but often tinted yellow, orange, blue, brown, or black by impurities), found in certain igneous rocks esp. the kimberlites of South Africa. It is used as a gemstone, as an abrasive, and on the working edges of cutting tools. Composition: carbon. Formula: C. Crystal structure: cubic. Name derived from the Greek adamas meaning invincible. Relative density 3.50- 3.52. Cleavage eminent along octahedral faces. Fracture conchoidal. Tenacity brittle. Lustre brilliantly adamantine. Refractive index 2.417- 2.419. Birefringence and pleochroism: none (cubic). Dispersion strong 0.044. Diamond crystals form as cubes, octahedra , the most common gem form, and dodecahedra. Colourless to yellow diamonds which have a strong absorbtion line in the violet end of the spectrum are members of the Cape series.